Contrary to popular belief, there's no oil in glitzy, status-conscious DALLAS. Competitive with Houston, and smug about its cowtown neighbor Fort Worth, Dallas boasts of its "sophistication" and its "old" wealth. For all that, the stuffiness is tempered by a typically Texan delight in self-parody, and there's still fun to be had if you know where to look - especially in the alternative Deep Ellum district, with its superb restaurants and nightlife. Downtown Dallas is a hymn to commerce. Many of its skyscrapers are landmarks in themselves; at night the red neon Mobil Pegasus on the 1921 Magnolia Building on Akard and Commerce streets appears to gallop over the city, while over two miles of green argon tubing delineate the 72-story Bank of America building. The original Neiman Marcus department store, famed for its glamorous Christmas catalog, is still there on Main Street.